This trip was heart warming for me. Yari isn't usually safe until late spring, so getting a summit tour in after a 4 month skiing stand-down and before the season started gave me some long-lasting soul food to last the three months of powder that is about to close in on us. Tough life, eh?
15km, 10 hour day trip, 1700m vertical climb from Sarukura, 1000m vert descent. Just me and my dog. Excluding breaks for food the time and space beta goes as follows:
- Started at 5am, 3hrs to Yari Onsen. Mostly snowless the whole way there.
- 1 hour to overcome the bulkhead directly above the onsen. In spring you skin around the climbers left no probs. And descend that way. In November that route is out: not enough snow and too many holes in the very broken permanent snow field. The rocky knuckle above the onsen has fixed bolts and chains for aiding summer hikers. The rocks roll-over and have a flow of water that was frozen over most rocky outcrops with about 6 inches of water ice exposed or under the snow. There is a path winding through this steep slow section but it was covered and rounded over with snow, along with the chains and ropes. I carefully used crampons to get over the knuckle - not serious stuff at all, but a slip would have resulted in some serious bruises and breaks. It was an anticipated hassle and it took me almost 1 hour to ascend 150m (I'd usually ascend 600m in an hour).
- continued on skins for the remaining ascent, all the way to the summit despite the wind scoured reverse flank of Yari. The summer hike path had wind blow accumulation leaving a thread of constant snow without rock pepper. Exactly on budgeted time: 6 hours total to the summit from the car - actually a slow pace with breaks and tackling the knuckle.
Riding was good. It felt great to turn on soft snow and steeper terrain with some speed. I hooted out loud several times to myself, and to Lloyd, but he never shows emotion. There was sun sheltered snow on the northern edge of the gully that gave 10-20cm of soft alpine sugar on top of a very hard sun crust. It was steep enough for some snow movement, it was fun (typically 40 with a touch of 45 here and there). That went for 400m vert. The next 300m vert to the knuckle was wide open with moist sugar with patches of wind scoured crust, angle about 35 dropping to 30 to 20. I managed to ride/scrape the knuckle down to the onsen, took a break to sooth my feet and the rode another 200m vert leaving me a little below the snowless summer hiking path and route home.
The hike out was slow.
Pictures.
Hakuba Yari from the valley
The path is is marked from summer hiking. Look at all the pink tape! Not one old lady got lost.
Part of the approach. The knuckle above the onsen is circled.
Path up (green), down (red). A small part of the approach is obscured (solid green). The rest of the approach is out of shot.
The hot volcanic stream from the onsen steams and looks very out of place
After the knuckle and the first view of the end of my intended line.
Approach to the summit, a spur and intended line below. I was tempted to just go for it here. It looked good.
Lloyd takes the Yari summit (2903m).
Summit affection. And a face shot.
Second attempt. Smile this time.
View towards Happo. No snow, its only November.
Lloyd, you coming down there? Have a look...
I'll do it.
Ok, Lets go!
On second thoughts, its a bit icy.
Crampons!
It got softer
Lloyd had fun
I tried to have fun. The ice wasn't far below though. Didn't carving it very well.
After a good 1000m descent. 3 hours left to get back to the car. My favourite remote hotspring still with some creature comforts (wooden deck) remaining from summer hiking season.
Dog rests
My toe nails are still partly black from last season. The nails felt loose on this hike. I really hoped they would heal over summer.
The water was hot and felt good.
And onto the track home. A boring stomp, but very satisfying.
...and plenty of sticks along the way for Lloyd
I can live this life.
sweet little TR
Looks like a nice line and... an impact hot tub??? awesome. the ultimate combo!
Nothing better than a hot
Nothing better than a hot tub in the middle of nowhere!
Thanks for reading and leaving a comment.
Good one!
You know, I was wondering how many trips you've been making since that day at Daisekkei. The season is just beginning but it looks like you're already super-fit (and Lloyd as well). 10 hours/1700m climb is a pretty serious trip. You could probably do a 1-day Shin-Hodaka Onsen -- Yarigatake route at Kamikochi no problem.
I remember that knuckle above the onsen well, it was a pain descending it. Reaching the onsen, though, made it all worth it.
Good one!
Thanks George. I'm not that
Thanks George. I'm not that fit, I just keep moving.
Looks like a lot of snow later this week, which will likely shut down the alpine for some time. Pity.
600m in 1h comment
Damian, nice TR & pic, you are one fit puppy! That is way way faster than the average rate. Means you need patience when you hike with others. I officially raise you to the rank of "chamois".
Lloyds should play poker. Prize money is nice these days.
I could not help but notice after your last TR. It seems 1/2 the PN community has followed in your footsteps @ Daisekkei, the other 1/2 (exagerating of course) at Yari (seems a couple of guys got in trouble there already). I wonder if it is a trend for the rest of the season. It is interesting to see that. I noticed there have been a lot of questions asked about the flutes (nice vid btw), and I am just wondering how many of these guys are going to try to go there this winter and go down in conditions where you would have turned back (how many guys you know on PN rappel down the line to check snow conditions). You were turned back like 3 times before you could do the line eventually. Anyway I tend to worry too much. That just gave me an idea for a handle name on PN.
Take it easy.
Thanks for the comments, Mr
Thanks for the comments, Mr Worry :-)
The best way to learn is by doing - and sometimes getting into trouble. I am happy to see some others engaging on a little adventure around here. In general there has been too much talk over the years, so some action is welcome. I'd rather see reputations built on trying and failing than talking and never really doing (as has been the case at times).
Hakuba this year will see more gaijin visitors than ever before and I am sure plenty will get around to the easy access but often unstable steep terrain you mentioned (flutes etc). I hope they have fun and don't hurt themselves or worse. If they do get injured it will be a great way to learn just how difficult rescue can be and how important emergency equipment is. Almost no one goes prepared to survive a night out there.
As for avalanche hazard - its just a matter of time before there is another big gaijin death like the NZers several years back. The data suggests that this year will be a likely year for a repeat.
Crampons!
My wife and I were astounded by the spread on Lloyd's claws -built for gripping the snow - and those muscley legs. How old is he? Did you get him in Japan?
The onsen looks great - is it open throughout the winter (ie they don't board the pool over?), and is the route up there relatively safe from avalanches for day hikers like myself?
Onsen
Hi Julian, he certainly grips the snow with those claws, although it is unusual to see them so spread out. First day of the season I guess. Cautious. He is 8 years old and from Australia.
The onsen has temporary structures that are packed away in winter. These end up as neat square bundles of wood wrapped in cables and the iron they use for the roof. Other than that the onsen is open. In winter is is slightly exposed through the snow due to melt (as I have viewed it from a fair distance). However it sits between two avalanche paths and as such I'd strongly recommend against a winter visit. Now is a great time to go, along with spring, although you have to be careful of early spring season avalanches and later rock fall from the steep terrain directly above it. Later in spring (April-May) more people camp there before it re-opens. Unfortunately many campers exercise very poor toilet discipline and it gets a bit messy (I firmly believe in carrying out ones toilet - a habit I wish more hikers here would follow). Covering it in snow doesn't magically make it gone.
I went there last spring a few times: http://steepdeepjapan.com/tripreports/yari-onsen-with-lloyd
Hakuba-yari onsen
Thanks for the advice, Damian. Then I will certainly not be going to the onsen during the winter, and probably won't have time to get up there before then.
Re. toilets, on Rishiri hikers are encouraged to take their own poop bags (on sale), there are cubicles on the mountain where people can go in private, and a large poop-bag collecting bin at the base. One hut on Hakusan had a similar arrangement. But those are the only two such places I have found to date. The idea needs spreading.
Sun in the sky, snow on the
Sun in the sky, snow on the ground - a perfect day. You've inspired me to get my butt in gear and get back out there..
Chris - good! :-) I even
Chris - good! :-) I even saw quite a lot of water ice from flow over rocks. Not good for climbing but I did think of the ice climbers out there. Unfortunately it will all get covered quite soon by snow.
Julian - it is a habit that I hope does catch on. Same for taking beer cans home rather than leaving them on the trail (I collect many).