Overnight trip to Norikura
28 Dec 07
Korenge Ridge looking beautiful. A real alpine environment in Japan. More pictures below.
Thanks to Mick and Sarah, employees and guests at Hakuba House for taking such good care of Lloyd whilst I was away. I have never seen a dog look more at home. And thanks for the cold beer in your bar on my return!
My solo overnight camping trip to Tengubara above Tsugaike was great. Despite some strong winds the temperature in the shelter of my tent was not so bad –10C at 7pm as I went to sleep and probably no colder than –12C in the small hours of the morning. On the first day there were perhaps 5 other people touring the Norikura bowl. I lapped the bowl three times and by my second descent all other people had departed the area and I enjoyed it to my self. The snow was wind packed and chalky with loose accumulated snow on the surface. The three round I had were all quite fast and I carried the speed well beyond the bowl into the low angle meadows and rolls to the north of Tengubara. This made the return ascent quite a lot longer, but it was fun to wash off all that momentum with long weaving turns through the gentle and sheltered glades. I had buried all my overnight equipment below the bowl to make my riding and climbing pack lighter. On the third ascent of the bowl the wind had really started to howl at the top and exposed skin reacted quickly to the intense windchill factor.
On the second day I decided not to carry out my planned ‘traverse’ over Norikura to the entry area of the Renge Onsen faces (due to the wind). Instead I rode a little of the low angle northerly aspects that head away to nowhere in particular (the same gentle gladed slope I mentioned above). Then I traversed the south facing ridge that overlooks the summer tram from Tsugaike. The northerly chutes were looking good, but clearly wind loaded. I didn’t even risk a small descent to dig a snow pit. I’d have rather been in the company of others and roped up for that task. Instead I spent a nice morning taking photographs of future terrain an d enjoyed a pretty descent southerly descent from 2100m in wide spaced trees and on sun softened wind packed snow. It was fast and fun. My overnight pack was quite heavy, but with a bit of luck and ‘snowboard hip shuffling’ over flat sections in the lower resort pistes, I managed to ride one uninterrupted descent to the Tsugaike resort carpark at 800m. That’s 1300m vert descent without taking a foot out of my bindings.
The Norikura Bowl
Looking down upon Happo-one in the clouds
I woke up and thought for a moment that I was back in Chamonix. The fantastic NE couloir off Shiromadake (2932m). Never photographed or pointed at from Hakuba Village as it is only visible only on the approach to Tengubara above Tsugaike. The couloir is obvious running left to right down the face on the very edge of the shadow. It runs for 600m vert at an average angle of 38 degrees, ending in the long smooth permanent snowfield that leads down to Sarakura. This second much bigger wide open couloir running right to left can itself be ridden top to bottom for at least 1000m of vert at an average angle of 25 degrees.
A cornice in the making at the top of the Tsugaike chutes
In the foreground: the treed ridges and chutes of Sarakura. Then, the north faces of Happo-one side country, behind that, Hakuba47-Goryu north face side country and behind that, the Alaskan style face of Kashimayarigatake (2889m).
Comments
mmmmm
Stunning photos, you're certainly making the most of it :)
barren beauties
Nice shots! About how heavy is your overnight pack?
What do you think about?
OK, so you're up in the beautiful nature all by yourself. No dog.
What are you thinking about? Do you get lonely, or do you feel like an animal in its natural environment? Does your mind ever shut up completely and you're just taking everything in without thinking but without a total blank either?
When you're in your tent at night, do you get shivering cold? Do you hear interesting things, or is it all quiet up there?
I'm very curious on these points. Rather than for the creamy powder, I want to try the backcountry alone to test the potential mental effects.
I've been up some mountains all by myself although not to sleep. Generally it doesn't feel lonely because you sense a lot of living things around you. But none of the mountains have been as white as that (which I fancy must make some sort of difference). I've been having some interesting meditation experiences recently which have been intensely lonely. I wonder whether the cushion experience or the snow tent experience is the more lonely. I'd like to try combining them one day...
quick reply
Thanks all for commenting on the pictures and the questions. My pc time is limited today, I will come back with better answers later.
Pack weight: not sure, but quite heavy, 10-15kg perhaps. Riding in trees can be difficult and you need reliable leg muscle endurance.
Solo winter camping: not as rewarding as in summer. The sun sets at 5pm, so that's when you go to bed as its too cold to linger around and enjoy the surrounds and the metaphysical effects that they can bring you. If I take an overnight pack, I don't carry warm clothes to save weight. I use my sleeping bag instead. This means you try and sleep for 14 hours, which gets a bit uncomfortable and accentuates the cold and the sense of total isolation (which itself is nice). Mountain light is always the best in the early moments of sunrise, so that's a great benefit of waking up there. But getting out fo bed and putting on frozen boots detracts from that. They freeze solid unless you sleep with them in your bag, which for 14 hours becomes a little annoying. I recommend spring snow camping for the white benefits without many of the winter hassles.
More specific responses to your questions later.
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