Australian Backcountry

29 August 2011

I went to Australia to teach some AST Level 1 avalanche courses in August for 3 weeks - four courses in total and they seemed well received by consistently good enthusiastic people. Everyone was happy to be able to take the training in Australia rather than give up a few days of their expensive overseas holiday to do it. From a personal and professional perspective, it was worthwhile trip that I will do again next season and as an Australian I was long overdue in the mountains there, so I'm happy I at last changed that. Because of the natural environment, camping, terrain and most of all the backcountry people I met, this trip was one of the best I have done. Probably the most significant moment in my backcountry life that may just change a few things.

I was based near Jindabyne and from there accessed the Main Range of of the Snow Mountains,as they are called in Australia. Some times also The Australian Alps, or The Snowies for short. For a lot of very good info on the area, check this site Oz BC.

Of the 22 days I was in the area I worked 8, spent a few researching terrain for work, had a few days off and also explored the regional towns a bit. I also spent a few days checking out Perisher ski resort, which was very impressive, better than anything I have seen in Japan on a number of counts. Pity the snow lets them down.

Unfortunately my schedule did not leave a lot of time for loads of pure backcountry time, however I went our on a few trips and the conclusion in my mind was clear: this area has fantastic backcountry when it comes to medium sized vertical, gentle terrain with features, easy access and long tours into proper rolling alpine country. I didn't see enough to make a full and fair judgment, but what I saw I loved. Everyone likes a new flavour after a while and compared to Hakuba (Japan) where I live, I really appreciated the terrain's demand that you be able to navigate and read a map. That you can use gentle and moderate terrain effectively and imaginatively - rather than damned ridge hikes and ego-driven obvious one-hit peaks and steeps near to resort. That you needed to read the snow to get quality - rather than the unchallenging abundance of fresh snow that we get, which ironically is the reason the more distant properly adventurous terrain is almost out of reach all winter. Backcountry travel and skiing in the Snowy Mountains allows, and at times requires, the artful approach of a craftsman to be expressed in both ascent and descent. It is a wonderful canvas to draw on and a different type of mirror than I am usually looking into. I will go back often and slowly deepen my knowledge of the area. In this trip I only scratched the surface and formed the start of a relationship by taking it easy in my new environment.

I camped by a river most nights for free in the National Park. This was an absolute highlight of my trip.

A camp fire at night, in winter! You can't do that in Hakuba, so I appreciated the chance very much

So many mountain streams hold so many trout. I am envious.

For some reason, this cold desolate river scene was very beautiful

The trees. It can be a cliche almost, but the Australian Snow Gum is one of the most stunning snow trees I have seen. Everyone says it, and it is true. You need to see them live.

My work. Actually, on the field days everyone else does the work. I had great customers and made friends, which is not to be taken for granted these days.

The terrain. After two trips from Dead Horse Gap and Thredbo, I spent 2 days exploring the various aspects and ridges associated with The Paraliser Range and also Guthries Ridge between Perisher and Charlottes Pass ski resorts. This area is easy to reach, safe, so pretty, and has some of the best 150-200m vertical lines of gentle glades and trees I have seen. I wish it were in Hakuba. On any given day there would be something good and safe in there without to much effort. It also has rocks! How I miss rocks in my skiing. Texture and terrain character with some pretty big hits and pillow lines hidden in the terrain

I also managed one trip into the alpine to Mount Twynam (2196m). This peak and the approach terrain allows such an elegant route up (I went up climbers right to get a good view of Mount Anton along the way). It is long enough to be fun, short enough to engage you, and comprised of a collection of pieces that you can link together very nicely. Such great touring terrain. The descent was long which made the smallish 500m vertical more enjoyable, and besides traverses to link together fall-lines, it was uninterrupted good turns in good snow. It can be done in half a day and I felt great when I was back at the car as the snow started to fall after a mostly morning.

Pity I didn't get more pictures along the way. Another solo trip as usual

These are the lick marks left on my campervan by kangeroos. It is a very strange sound, the echo of two kangeroos licking your car in the small hours. It is also an odd thing to hear for the first time, because it sounds so much like licking, but why should it be?!

Home for 3 weeks. Drying out by the lake after a wet day.

Evening fishing after skiing. Everyone else caught fish, quite big trout, except me

One of the best trips I have done. I can't believe more people don't do it.