JP-1

28 Dec 2011

I thought this season I would try - and possibly fail - to maintain a rolling trip report of my ventures into a favourite area in the heart of the Hakuba front range. This is chapter 1. After a few trips near to the zone earlier in December I finally made it up a little way out of the scrub and into the alpine. There were possibly better options on the day, such as staying low in the trees where there had been no wind, but that would have meant missing out on a chance to add one more day to my relationship-building with this special area.

There are a few ways to approach the JP area with the most basic being a hike up from the valley floor over several kilometers. Today's hike was easy but not so fast as the lower snow depth that comes with early season meant that various shortcuts and exercises in contouring were not possible.

As I left the tree line it became immediately obvious that the wind had been everywhere and the snow was variable. I could use the terrain to avoid avalanche risk easily, but the skiing was not going to be good. It didn't matter as this was my first time back to 2200m in that area since last season and the beauty of the surrounds beats ski quality most days.

The hike in and 1400m climb took 5 hours. Plenty of time to talk to myself along the way and settle into a mindset that you acquire when one is is the middle of stunning snow smoothed white alpine terrain without a breath of wind and utterly alone. The slight grumble of a river below is all that you have. It is that alone-ness and silence that can work against me at times. I was pushing on higher and, as usual, had to give up my well worn route that links easy terrain and take on an open 35 degree slope that hangs over 400m vertical of avalanche path.

Today was as good as it gets for stability and it is only a short stretch where you are hanging out there - no big deal for some less touchy I suppose. I made it 10 steps out onto the slope and one hair stood up, then 50 hairs, then my stomach rose and tightened... and it was over. As I turned around and took off my skins to ski from a safe spot. That lingering time as you climb is so slow compared to the moments it takes to ski it, and the momentum you have to carry you to islands of safety if you were wrong.

In backcountry skiing there is no other way to know the hairs on your neck other than to climb, and climb often, into terrain without any obvious safe routes, away from resorts and helicopters and wind-scoured ridges that anyone can boot pack from a chairlift. It isn't something that you should jump into lightly.

With variable wind effected snow at every turn above 1400m, the climb was more enjoyable than the ski. That was not hard though since the weather was perfect and most of the way up above the trees and clouds I enjoyed those molecule-sized frozen bits of vapor that you can't see if you try to look at them. However if you look at nothing you suddenly see these spiraling shooting stars in the corner of yours eyes as the vapor crystals catch the sunlight. They fill your peripheral vision like a school of darting fish, only to vanish when you try to look again.

After a casual 9am start I cruised back down to the car and met Mio and Lloyd along the track in the afternoon. Why do dogs love running along side skiers so much?

Comments

Happy New Year.
Looking forward to the continuing unfolding of your winter story.
And to one day join you again.
Safe travels.
Mal

Hi Mal, happy new year to you guys as well.

Get [very] fit, come to hakuba again, join me on the track.