16 May 08
This was an eventful and fun 2 day trip. Just myself and the dog. It was good solitude.

We were headed for the big bowl on the left hand side of Hakuba Yari, using the natural hotspring at 2000m as a base camp. Two days of this, all to myself. In the above photo the onsen (volcanic hot spring) is roughly one third from the bottom of shot, at the base of the big bowl, near a hug melted patch. There is steam rising from it but you cant see it.
Started out at from the trailhead at about 4am. To reach the onsen you have an easy 600m climb to a low-range col. from there a 200m descent and another 600m climb. I was aiming higher than the cold to get a bigger descent into the 'yari basin'. Unfortunately it was still dark and I missed my ascent line a little, putting me into slighter steeper terrain than hoped and on pure re-freeze corn ice. I had ski crampons on and was literally about to switch into boot crampons and ice axe when I slipped. Face first on my stomach I went for a slide on the ice, taking me about 100m back down the hill before I could arrest the slide with my ski pole. It was pretty nasty, lots of bruises, knocked the wind from me. Its a horribly basic error that I shouldn't have made, although I had admittedly just decided that crampons where needed, but one step too late. The worst part was I wasn't wearing any gloves, a bad habit of mine. So I lost some skin. All told, the damage was not so bad. I picked up my stuff and went back up the hill. Unfortunately I had lost one of the ski crampons. I decided that I would get it the next day on the return.
Down to pure meat. Same on the other hand. Scratched forearms.

Reached the onsen nice and early and it was tempting, but I only dropped some gear and went up for a first tour. My hands were hurting and still bleeding a bit from being constantly knocked and rubbed by my ski pole grips, and it was getting hot, so I only went for a quick trip, up to 2500m from where I rode back down past the onsen to 1600m, pretty much the snowline at this time of year. It was a good 900m of early-morning perfect corn. It took an hour to skin back to the onsen.
Which was unbearably hot. My watch measured it at 45C, but I think it was higher. I could sit in it for no more than 60 seconds at a time. I soothed my feet in it, which made them turn pink. The onsen has been developed over the years for summer use, hence the artificial retainer wall and concrete pool. The steam has a very strong sulphur smell.

Looks tempting. Dangerously hot.

Half way up our ascent looking back towards the onsen. The descent carries on out of shot to the right.

It had snowed the previous evening and we had about 25cm new snow quickly getting warm in the sun.

Lloyd was happy.

The snow was good for mid-May.

Back at camp, I got naked. And bathed naked. And walked around naked. I was at my own nudist snow camp.

The onsen had a good view.

I was sweating like a lobster in a sulphuric volcano pot. Hello.

The water was too hot for me to enjoy and besides, it was very warm out. So I fell asleep in the sun for 2 hours and got really sunburnt. I didn't need the sunburn on top of my other knocks and bruises from the mornings accident.
By 6pm it was only 1C, so I made a fire. I had been back at camp since 11am and enjoyed a very long slow and quiet afternoon and evening of nothing but thought and looking at the scenery and being naked (whilst the sun was still high.)

Yari Onsen has a few rudimentary huts that get disassembled over winter and wrapped up in rope and steel sheets. Avalanche wreaks havoc with them so I cleaned up some of the smashed wood.
Overnight it dropped to about -4C. I had taken my three season weight bag (rated to +3C) and a ridiculously thin and light weight bivy bag, more like a sleeping bag cover. Lloyd and I didn't have much room in this set up as it is extra small to save weight and space in you pack. But we got by ok, not too cold at all.
We packed away our gear in the morning and left it there for collection later, by 7.30am we were heading up to about 2800m. The 800m ascent took 1.5 hours. Still heaps of snow on the backside of Shirouma Dake as well. Looking very good for another trip.

The view back own to Hakuba 2000m below. You can just see some of the rice paddies which have recently been flooded and planted.

Saw a ptarmigan turning speckled for spring camouflage. A few weeks ago they were still pure white for winter.

Rode down some very good clean snow fields with fresh and then to hit this rocky peak. It had a really nice wind lip leading up it.

Lloyd got some at the rock as well.

Good stuff for May. The advantage of having some proper alpine terrain in Hakuba

More good stuff.

Took a brief stop at the onsen to collect my overnight gear, then rode the rest of the way down to the snowline. This descent went the full 1200m vertical, a seriously good line for just having fun. . From there we skinned the 200m or so back up to the col, hiked higher along the ridge and rode down the line I slide on yesterday. Unfortunately I couldn't find my lost ski crampon. But it gave me an excuse to get a longer line back to the car. Another 700m vert. So much riding, such a great two days.
Lloyd and I were pretty tired, happy to be back at the car. Over the two days we did a lot of skinning but got a solid 3000m of vert, all great corn or heavy fresh.

alone and content in a
alone and content in a beautiful place = best feeling in the world. your dog is the coolest.
Skin tech
The skin on those parts of one's hands is designed to be removable, that's why it comes off so easily.
Thats what I thought
Funny now how I need skin there. I use that forgotten part of the body quite often so it seems.
Instantaneous regret
That's quite a good bloody mess there. I wonder if you encountered one of those momentary flashes of clarity where almost instantaneously you see the error of what you have done and wish you could undo it to avoid the forthcoming pain. Like some of my best chess moves, I have a full memory of those vivid moments of instant regret.
This is my favourite TR of yours so far. I think the key to its beauty is how you have come to be able to read Lloyd's mind, and also the remarkable progress Lloyd is making in skinning, riding, setting up camp and other advanced mountain techniques.
ahh, ahhh ahhh!
Certainly one of those vivid moments. I've had a fe this year as well.
For the first 50 meters or so I was pathetically yelling ahhh! repeatedly. I think it was a pure pain and fear response as I went faster and faster. I knew what was happening and couldn't stop it because I was on my stomach, face first, heavy pack on my back and skis (split board halves) awkwardly on my feet).
I started to hit bumps, which got me airborn, just to land with a belly flop again. This knocked the wind out of me. The whole time I was losing skin and couldn't react correctly without losing more skin. Eventually I started to yell at myself "arrest!", meaning, perform self arrest, which I did with my ski pole after I slowed a little and managed to rotate onto my side and use the pack for friction as well. When I came to a stop I was in paid all along my arms and stomach. Seeing blood I instantly assumed that all points of pain where also points of stripped skin. It took several minutes for me to realise that the only bleeding was on my palms. If there had been rocks/trees/drop-offs in my path then I'd have a large collection of broken bones right now.
The worst part was it was 5am, just getting light and I was sitting on the ice alone in quite a bit of pain. Lloyd didn't even know where I was for a while and seemed quite confused about how I got there.
The lasting memory is me thinking "holy shit, I'm going really fast and cant stop".
Thanks for the vote on the TR.
Out of curiosity
Out of curiosity, what would you do if you were a bag of broken bones? Can you call for help on a mobile phone? Do you launch signal flares? Do you blow on a whistle? Just wait until somebody realises you haven't come back? Write a note with your coordinates in blood, put it in Lloyd's backpack, and firmly say "Home!"? What's the SOP for that one?
Not much
Enjoy your long answer.
This is Japan, and unlike the nations of the European Alps, there is no alpine rescue in the organised and efficient sense. You can get help, but don't count on it being quick. And don't count on it being executed by a team of trained pros who for the last 100 years have been proud of their successful rescue statistics. In Europe I had the rescue number written on he back of my mobile phone, and had reception almost anywhere. You call, and they will come. In Chamonix the heli rescue is even free (so long as it was an honest accident, not a result of unprepared stupidity).
I don't even know the number of a rescue operation in Japan, or more precisely, Hakuba. There isn't one. And besides, most mobile phone networks have no reception just a little bit into the mountains here. Where I was has no reception at all. That is the case 95% of the time.
The best plan is don't travel alone in the backcountry. I break that rule constantly. The second rule is make sure someone knows where you are going, your route and your return date. I always do that, but very often change my plans on the move. In this case I was going to snowboard Shakushi Dake, but at 2am was woken by lingering doubt and second guessing my plan. Confidence vanishes during that lonely feeling time in your tent. Often it is replaced by a sensible review of overenthusiastic intentions. And so I changed my plan, still going where intended, but about 10 hours earlier than advised.
I carry a whistle, and carry a big bag of pain killers and very basic first aid. I would have dragged myself back to my car in this case. It would have been a nasty few km's, but too bad. I also carry enough equipment to stay the night in situ, even if I only planned on being gone half a day. Usually someone comes within yelling distance.
In short, Hakuba has no organised rescue and very poor alpine phone reception therefore it is irresponsible to travel alone. With time I hope more people like me will move to Hakuba and wake up every day for 7 months of the year with a plan in their head about what they will climb and ski that day. I am also trying to improve my Japanese so I can comfortably tour with the local guys. Until then, I'm kind of on my own.
solo
ya know...I always wondered about solo travel in the backcountry. Every time I consider it, I always arrive at the conclusion that it is not a good idea. Doesn't traveling solo potentially negate all the know-how and experience you have out there? Certainly carrying the minimum safety gear looses its value as well (unless you have trained Llyod to use a beacon and dig).
You seem to be really on top of the science of bc travel and acquiring all the right skills...but you do go solo alot, so how do you justify it to yourself??
I think it doesn't fall under the 1yen curve...
Skywalker
I can't justify it to myself, I consciously act in an irrational way to allow me the freedom to do what I want.
It is worth noting that I usually ride very conservatively. In winter I only solo the safer itiniaries, often going up only to recon a route and dig some pits, then to ski down the most utterly conservative route possible.
In spring I feel much more comfortable. Travelling on spring snow in the backcountry, if done properly (I failed to do so and lots skin), is not unlike hiking alone in summer. Its just backpacking on skis. How and where one descends makes the difference. I soloed one particular route this spring that went poorly and had luck been against me, I'd have suffered for being alone.
I too had a built in barrier against touring alone. Then I started doing it and have since found that it feels quite normal if done carefully.
To me the biggest problem with solo touring is not having a second or third person's body of experience to formulate plans with. Going solo it is quite easy to make a plan and build in an oversight that doesn't become apparent until late on, resulting in a change of plans or a hassle. With more minds at work on the point of judgement and route planning, you get a better outcome faster. Merely talking through a plan quickly identifies ways to improve it and a trio of experienced people will efficiently distil a sensible plan and get moving quickly without indecision. Executing a good plan quickly is the key to success in the mountains. Being alone can sometimes allow that and at other times, hinders it terribly.
Doing what he enjoyed
> I consciously act in an irrational way to allow me the freedom to do what I want.
So if at some time it all goes utterly pear shaped, we will sagely wag our heads and comfort ourselves with the polite line "At least he died doing what he enjoyed". (Others will no doubt comfort themselves by saying "He was a prick anyway", but only after a decent interval.)
Philosophically speaking though, it's a perfectly reasonable approach. I'd happily go alone and face the consequences, whatever they may or may not be.
"And all the time the dog ran with him, at his heels."
I'm an unabashed fan of any post that features Llyod. This is in part because I'm secretly waiting (hoping?) for a final bleak post reminiscent of To Build a Fire with a similar ending.
replies...
Ocean11 - Lets say in the unlikely event that I died backcountry snowboarding then I guess all that need be said would be "a man died backcountry snowboarding. It can happen." Any fuss or interpretation beyond that would be unnecessary. Regarding the popular polite phrase 'doing what he liked', well yes, that would be true, but it doesn't change a thing after the event. "He died doing what he liked.... except for the last few seconds which consisted of utter terror as he fell 200 meters to his death over a sheer cliff after having lost his footing and endured that bowel weakening suspended moment of realisation as events unfolded with the thought 'oh shit I'm going to die, and its going to hurt!". Yuck.
goemon - I'll read that before I respond. My education appears to have fallen short of your literary expectations.
Ha ha
Yes, that's the part I can't help supplying whenever I hear that line. It's like asking Mrs Kennedy, how did you enjoy the drive up to that point?
I just discovered the other day through a little poking about that Mr Goemon is a literature grad like me. There's lots of US lit. that I feel I should read, probably starting with Uncle Tom's Cabin. (I have however read that Jack London piece before though. Lloyd wouldn't just up sticks like that, American though he may be).
London yarn
That was a piece we had to read in Mrs. Fitzpatrick's 6th grade Reading class.
It obviously stuck with me.
Unlike some misbegotten, ungrateful mutts I know...
That reminds me of the
That reminds me of the classic joke.
You know, when I want to die, I want to go out like like my grandad. Peacefully in his sleep. Not screaming ... like his passengers.
Never heard it before
Hi Stew, that is a classic joke. Very funny.
cheers